The Female Gaze In Fashion Photography

Where are all the great women fashion photographers? Ahead of women’s history month in March, one exhibition is looking at two key figures of the female gaze in fashion. Opening March 5, the Staley Wise Gallery in New York features two trailblazing women who broke ground in fashion photography; 2 Women of Style is the name of this two-woman exhibit showcasing the works of Louise Dahl-Wolfe; who shot for Harper’s Bazaar in the 1930s, and Stephanie Pfriender Stylander; a New York photographer who shot Kate Moss in 1991, when she was just 17. Granted, there are countless women fashion photographers who changed the game, from Regina Lelang to Deborah Turbeville and more recently, Ellen von Unwerth. Here, Pfriender Stylander shares her personal history as a photographer, her triumphs, challenges and what she respects most about actors.

I never really thought about being a woman photographer, I always looked at myself as a photographer. My background was such that my mother during the 1940s and 1950s had a great career, got married in her 40s, and with her as my role model as well as her girlfriends that were always around I saw strong women, women that did what they wanted to do, choosing careers and travel. Funny stories that I do remember are when my team and I would arrive at an airport to meet the driver and the welcome sign would have my male assistants name as the photographer. When I look back especially now, there must have been prejudices and losses of jobs, but the flip side could be that subjects and situations may have seen a woman photographer as less threatening.

My fashion photography career started in Europe, the climate of fashion editorial photography in the early 1990s was liberal and creative. I had a strong voice in my pictures and my personality which was greeted with excitement, the editors demanded a photographic point of view. Photographic style generates from the photographers need to explore what they feel and think, it reflects their internal world. This approach cannot be copied, it is the photographers code, their personal language. The “edge” are the choices I make that you see and feel in my photographs.

How Villanelle Got Dressed To Kill For Killing Eve Season 3

Killing Eve is finally back on our screens and, with it, more fantastical British fashion than you could hope for.

As ever, season 3’s Villanelle is dressed to kill, forgoing the “assassin classics” (sunglasses, catsuits, et-boring-al) with bold 70s looks and power suits.

And, at a time when the industry really needs it, it seems costume designer Sam Perry has chosen to champion some of Europe’s best brands.

She succeeds the show’s original costume designer, Phoebe de Gaye, who set the tone for sartorial greatness in that super-pink, super-tulled Molly Goddard dress, and season two’s Charlotte Mitchell, who utilized McQueen to perfection.

Though we’re just one episode into season three, Villanelle’s already stealing the show. First, in her wedding suit; a Comme Des Garçons slim-fit tuxedo, Simone Rocha mesh bustier, and Loewe brooch.

Cocktailkjoler

In future scenes, Villanelle is seen wearing a royal blue floral dress covered in roses (wild roses, natch) from The Vampire’s Wife.

While the dress boasts the brand’s signature puff sleeves, fitted bodice and gathered hem, it was actually inspired by the show’s manic but stylist antagonist and is, right on cue, now available to pre-order.

In conversation with Vogue, Perry hinted at the importance of such pieces, saying: “There’s pressure to keep her fashion kudos high enough so the audience doesn’t feel cheated.”

Particularly, when there are iconic outfits like that Molly Goddard dress-and-boot combo to compete with.

This year’s equivalent might be Charlotte Knowles’ exaggerated bomber, seen above—an upcycled racket of shearling and forest-green checks. Perry purchased the jacket at London’s Dover Street Market, crediting the BBC for paying for and supporting the pieces of independent designers.

In Killing Eve’s leaked season 3 stills, it appears she’s wearing the jacket with a pair of green Gucci trousers to play golf (or, more likely, use a golf club to batter someone to death).

How M Missoni Brought A Joyous Fashion Celebration To Los Angeles

Here in Los Angeles, we are often on the outside looking in when it comes to fashion week, but more and more often, fashion designers are uprooting their traditional shows in New York, London, Milan, and Paris for exciting outings here on the West Coast. Especially when it’s February, who wouldn’t want to leave the cold weather for sunny Los Angeles?

On Tuesday, February 4th, M Missoni ditched the usual Milan schedule for an exciting outing to Pink’s Hot Dogs on La Brea. Any Angeleno knows what an iconic landmark Pink’s is, and it proved to be the perfect backdrop for M Missoni’s latest collection, appropriately entitled “MMerica”.

The space was decked out in all things Missoni; every aspect, from the walls of the parking lot to the iconic Pink’s sign to the hot dog and French fries containers, were reimagined in Missoni zig-zags and colors, as if Missoni had exploded onto the Pink’s lot in every manner.

And then the fashion itself exploded onto the scene, in the form of a Missoni-branded double-decker sightseeing bus, not unlike the ones littered throughout Sunset and Hollywood Boulevards. Models exited the bus one by one to show off their M Missoni threads, eclectic mixes of printed knitwear and fabrics that evoked feelings of the Venice Beach boardwalk in the 60s and 70s.

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Here Are 5 Shows That Stood Out At New York Fashion Week

The Fall/Winter 2020 collections wrapped up in New York this week with a star-studded show from Marc Jacobs that brought out everyone from Nicki Minaj, who sat front-row, to Miley Cyrus, who took the runway by storm. While a handful of fashion’s biggest names were absent from the schedule, the focus was shifted to some emerging designers like 2019’s CFDA /Vogue Fashion Fund winner, Christopher John Rodgers, whose runway show exuded the promise and passion of an exciting new voice in the industry. From Jacobs’ statement as one of the city’s most revered showman designers to a slew of others who made a splash, I rounded up 5 shows that stood out during the week-long fashion festivities.

Making his runway debut since winning the mentorship and cash prize at last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, the 26 year-old designer set the tone for a bugenoning career that’s already seen him dressing the likes of Rihanna, Michelle Obama and Tracee Ellis Ross, to name just a few. Expanding on his bold signatures with a new twist, Rogers showed a beautiful array of his dramatic, structural silhouettes in irridescent fabrics, creating an exciting runway experience on par with the designer’s rising star.

The New York-based designer known for her handmade beaded handbags is no stranger to putting on fashion week presentations that defy convention. In an uplifting musical stages at PUBLIC Arts, the brand’s theatrical presentation of the Fall/Winter 2020 collection was noteworthy, to say the least. Featuring a cast that included Hunter Abrams, Benito Skinner, Lauren Servideo, and Richard Perez, Aisha Kerensa, Jessica Joffe, and Larry Owens, the cast sang and performed 4 original scores written by director MUR, that captured the trials and tribulations of being a creative in New York City.

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Now Open On New York’s Lower East Side: An Enticing Food Bazaar

When urban neighborhoods go through gentrification, they usually lose touch with the trademark institutions that gave them their identity. But on New York’s Lower East Side, an area historically known as the neighborhood for immigrants from Eastern Europe that transitioned to a hipster hangout known for its cutting edge cafes and clubs, a development is underway to do exactly the opposite. Essex Crossing in the heart of the neighborhood that will comprise 1079 new residences, both rental and coop, over 350,000 square feet of office space, 100,000 square feet of green space and 400,000 square feet of retail space is anchoring its food outlets in the culture of the area. The relocated Essex Market, a collection of food purveyor stalls and restaurant outlets which first opened on Essex Street in 1940, moved to a sprawling space here earlier this year. Late last month, The Market Line, a restaurant complex opened a floor below. Both are designed to showcase vendors and cuisines associated with the neighborhood or other New York City locales.

The physical layout is spartan, industrial, with polished concrete floors and high gloss black ceramic tiles. The roster of Market Line opening vendors, though, is earthier. Among them: Ends Meat is an Italian style butcher and salumeria, a satellite of their main shop in Sunset Park, Brooklyn selling cuts of meat, cured meats and sandwiches, including one that reaches into another city: New Orleans’ muffuletta.  Nom Wah, a Chinatown stalwart dating from 1920, is selling dumplings, noodles and other items. The Pickle Guys, a classic in the neighborhood reflecting the Lower East Side Kosher pickle vendors who’ve been selling their wares since 1910 are selling their barrel cured trademark half and full sour pickles as they still do nearby on Grand Street. Pho Grand also maintains their restaurant selling their classic Vietnamese soup on Grand while opening an outpost here. Veselka, an East Village staple since 1954, is selling its Ukrainian specialties borscht and pierogi here.

Other vendors are new entrants into the restaurant market such as Essex Pearl, a seafood restaurant owned by the family that has run a seafood market for 30 years at New York’s Fulton Fish Market. And some have extended from restaurants to markets such as Rustic Table Shuk, a market selling North African and Mediterranean staple ingredients as well as salads and sandwiches that’s an offshoot of the Hell’s Kitchen restaurant Rustic Table.